Since Europeans of that era were not accustomed to swimming in their own cold waters, it must have seemed like a dream to watch naked native Hawaiians riding the waves of a turbulent sea. "He'e nalu" (wave sliding) was the national sport and enjoyed by all Hawaiians. When a swell was up, whole villages were deserted as everyone fled to the beach to test their surfing skills. Legends of famous surf riders were retold in "mele" (song/chant), and fortunes could be decided on the outcome of a surfing contest. From these shores, modern surfing was born. This new book from Arcadia Pulishing offers a view of pre-1930 He'e nalu.
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